BEAUTY MACHINES

It is vital that hair care products do not actually damage the hair under the pretext of beautifying it. The hair must also be able to resist attack. Therefore, every product is subjected to real "torture tests" on a number of strange machines so that only the survivors will be worthy of actually being used on hair.


  Deep within the hair


Laser confocal microscopy gives researchers the opportunity of penetrating the body of the hair at a number of different levels, with the laser being used to virtually cut the hair into thin slices. The product or structure under study is then identified using fluorescent markers , enabling its action to be observed at different depths within the hair.
A research tool essential for the creation of quality hair care products, this imaging method is also used to assess product efficiency, both in terms of resistance and in terms of respect for the hair's integrity.

  Tireless detangling


Easily tangled hair is delicate hair.This is why, apart from the specific case of detangling conditioners, it is important to measure the effect hair care products have on its tendency to become tangled. The automatic comb, which carries out regular combing action on locks of damp hair treated by a product and others that are untreated, makes it possible to compare the strength of combing required to comb out the two locks of hair.
Making the products' detangling and protective qualities clearly apparent.

  The wig that says "no"


A styling product, such as a lacquer, is designed to hold the hair in place. But in everyday life, our head rarely stays completely still. The product is therefore only efficient if it can stand up to movement. Which is why we use the animated wig - applying the product under study to one side, leaving the hair on the other side in its natural state, or treating it with a benchmark product.

And then, under a controlled atmosphere to ensure humidity cannot influence results, the wig is submitted to a continual left/right, right/left lateral movement - as if saying "no". After a specific time, measurements are taken and the changes that have taken place on the two sides of the wig are compared - so that the hair styling product's resistance to movement can be assessed.

  Holidays or torture ?


24 hours of xenotest equivalent to 10 days of summer sun - a dream for some perhaps but, for hair, this is as tough as it can get. Especially since humidity and water come into play to make matters worse. And yet, these are the kind of conditions that colorants must now be able to withstand. So, in a sort of light house, locks of coloured hair turn around the xenon lamps which reproduce solar light in an atmosphere of varying humidity, and are regularly dampened by water sprays. Their colour is measured before the beginning of the operation. And it is measured again at the end.

Colorants which can resist this shock treatment really are capably of handling the very worst the sun and weather can do.

  Hair highlights


Good colorants have learnt to respect hair, including the very special relationship it maintains with light (Lien 5.1). This is the art of the highlight - in fact more complex than a simple reflection. A small part of the light falling on hair is indeed reflected by its surface, like a mirror. While the remainder penetrates into the fibre. There, the melanins absorb a certain amount of it and reflect the rest to reveal the hair's basic colour.

But some of the light continues through the hair and is reflected on the opposite side, having once again passed through the melanins, to produce the highlight. It is this mixture of basic colour and highlight which gives the hair its indescribable appearance of colour in movement. In order for colorant products to preserve this great beauty, the way coloured hair behaves is scrupulously studied by a machine with an outlandish name: the spectro-photo-goniometer. A device used to record and analyse the various reflections of a coloured lock of hair, lit from an oblique angle.
The hair's luminous aspect also reveals it state of health, so that locks treated with hair care products containing no colorants are also subjected to the spectro-photo-goniometer test.




WELCOME
PORTRAIT OF AN UNKNOW ELEMENT
LIVING AND RELIVING
AMAZINGLY NATURAL
SO STURDY AND YET SO FRAGILE

UNEXPECTED PROPERTIES OF HAIR

BEAUTY MACHINES

RESISTING A HOSTILE WORLD

PRE-CONCEIVED IDEAS
INFINITE TRANSFORMATIONS
THE HAIR A SCIENTIFIQUE ENIGMA
HAIR AND CULTURE
EXHIBITIONS
TOOLBOX







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